Case IH 1455 XL Problem Front Axle

Case IH 1455 Problem Front Axle Problems

We have a Case IH 1455 XL problem front axle of our tractor. Do not get so TO, because probably the “heart bolt” has shrunk. Now we would have to pull that and replace it with a new one.

Does anyone have experience with this? Maybe a drawing or tracks? What is necessary to disassemble? Light front weight. Thank you for your help

Everything half so wild, have also only done on my 1255XL.

I have only dismantled the weight support and the suspension weights. Afterwards you are already so far that you see a somewhat “egg-shaped” opening from the front.

For this opening you have to take out the heart bolt.

But before doing so, he lifts the vehicle with a cat safely (also stabilizes the vehicle so that it can not be moved when you raise something in the front), so that the VA is free.

In the ease of the shaft there is usually a hollow head screw with a safety nut. This has to be open (if it is not already loose or even still there) and preferably unscrewing. This is on the bolt on a notch and “fixed” this way in the shaft support or avoids sliding, if it is tightened.

If the axis is in the air, this counter screw removed, then you can rotate from the front a long screw (I think M8 or M10 screw was) in the thread. We have our workshop simply put into a drift and weight Impact then, away from the tractor the screwing pin of the two plastic bearing caps and the “hit” shaft support.

In most cases, the bolt is already worn or has “signs of wear”. You must then check if you want to use this again.

Next, I have cut the necessary length of a hydraulic cylinder used with matching piston rod (from the diameter), since it is hard chromed and can withstand more and, on the other hand, outside the contact surfaces of the bushing It is a little seated and therefore in the axis support also does not have as much air.

New plastic bushings, for example, aggrarordirekt etc. Procured and before reinstallation, of course, the “flat” achsbockanlageflächen pulled out with the Great Flex, as well as the contact surfaces in the ACHSBOCK. That everything should be straight again and without burrs, etc.

Install the plastic bushings and eliminate the “protuberance” from your seat with the bending. That do not protrude from the metal, rather than they have a few tenths less. In addition, pay attention to the holes for the passage of grease of the greasers. These must be aligned, otherwise, then there is no grease over the grease nozzle in the cap.

Next, measure the free width between the two plastic caps of the shaft (a little has been ground, therefore, not the original dimension) and also the length of the shaft support (also only a little bit of land and no longer The original dimension, even if this is only a few tenths of millimeter at 1 mm.

Next, get the appropriate wedges to bridge the “air” that is going to be bridged (better by bridging with 2 discs, where the thickest of the two should be installed in the Cuasi back position towards the cab, since this receives more ” Pressure “when driving, etc.) to eliminate with it. In order to minimize the problems during assembly, we have already kept the wedges in the respective points in front and behind the mounting of the axis in the center and plotted the edge of the disks with Edding.

The advantage of this is that when installing the washers, you can hit them in the exact installation position. Otherwise, it is difficult to put the screw afterwards, because the axle support itself has some air, there is some offset in front back, etc.

When measuring, do it very accurately and do not make a “slack adjustment”, that is, when mounting, the shaft support and the spacers must be very tight in the assembly area.

Once you have everything for the assembly, lubricate the plastic bushings with very good grease around it before inserting the center bolt. The advantage of this is that then the grease is already in all places and does not have to wander from the grease nipple and, on the other hand, the bolt also slides more easily into its initial position.

Then you can start the assembly, that is, push the core bolt from the front to the back.

ATTENTION: The thread must be facing the outside again so that you can remove it the next time you change the heart bolt, otherwise you will have a problem if it is mounted upside down.

If you are preparing a new screw, also pay attention to the notch in the hexagon nut so that it will be reinserted, otherwise this screw will later add nothing or have almost no effect. To further prevent screw slippage and also to get a better hold on the axle bracket, I have inserted a second socket head screw on the other side of the axle bracket at the same distance from the outside to the inside and prepared the screw accordingly.

I hope I helped you. Good luck!

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